Green Agate Signet Ring Seal Engraved With Heron Crest

The Signet Ring Maker: Forging a Signet Ring by Hand


Although seal engraving to the jewellery trade since 1969, Dexter’s die-stamped signets are now as popular as our engraving service with both the trade and our private clientele alike. This is due to the artistry of the engraving of course but also the superb quality of the rings themselves. Simon Wright, Head Craftsman and Managing Director believes: “Artistry and a keen eye for detail are as important in creating the elegance and balance of a high quality signet ring as engraving a miniature work of art”. Every ring starts as a die-stamped signet ring blank. This is what happens next.

Forging the blank into a ring

Once the flat stamping has been made, it is then forged round to resemble something you would recognise as a plain, un-engraved signet ring, and the ring maker’s experience and skill comes into its own. Bringing the flat stamped profile round, forging, hardens the metal again for strength and finish.


The forging process, step by step

  1. Annealing. First of all, we anneal the die-stamped signet ring blank with a blowtorch. This softens the gold, making it more malleable.
  2. Bringing it round. The blank is then ‘brought round’ by hand, gradually, on a special clamp.
  3. The sizing joint. The joint is created with gold solder. Every die-stamped ring contains a joint at the back of the ring. This is called a sizing joint, and it can be opened up over the life of the signet ring to adjust the finger size.
  4. Sizing. The ring is gradually sized on a jewellers’ triblet.
  5. Polishing. Finally, the signet ring is given its final polish, inside and out.

Shaping the signet ring

Beyond these standard steps, the ring maker can tailor the ring to the wearer. If the client prefers a slim, more feminine shoulder, the shape can be altered to produce a ‘scalloped shape ring’ effect. Similarly, the craftsman’s skill and a pin file can relieve the area inside the shank to produce what is known as a ‘comfort fit’, a ‘D’ shape on the inside of the signet ring’s band, if so desired. Modifications can also be made to the head shape, such as a different profile or a softened face edge. Each modification requires a deft touch and visual assessment to achieve balance and elegance at every stage.

The ring maker’s skill with his tools takes many years to perfect, but in just a few minutes he can sculpt a ring of elegance and poise that will be treasured for many years to come.

Ready for engraving

The signet ring is now ready for engraving! See how that stage looks in our hand engraving case study, or browse our full range of signet rings.

By A Otten · Published 12 May 2023 · Updated 31 October 2026